Which Retinol is Right for your Skin?
When it comes to powerhouse ingredients in skincare, retinol is where it’s at! This vitamin A derivative is good for almost every skin concern; it can improve skin tone, texture, fine lines, breakouts, and even pigmentation. But not all retinoids are created equal, and using the right one for your skin type is the key to getting glowing, healthy skin without irritation.
Let’s break down the different forms of retinoids and spotlight the Cosmedix lineup, including the newly launched Duo A, so you can confidently choose the one that is best for your skin.
First, what exactly is retinol? Retinol is a type of retinoid, a group of compounds derived from vitamin A. Yep, the same vitamin A you find in the foods you eat. When applied to skin, retinol increases cell turnover, supports collagen production, and helps regulate oil. The result? Smoother, clearer, and brighter skin. Who doesn’t want that?
Retinoids vary in strength, depending on the concentration, the other ingredients in the formula, and how many steps it requires to convert it into retinoic acid, the active form your skin can utilize.
Types of Retinoids
Each step closer to retinoic acid means it’s stronger because it can be utilized by the skin quicker, but you’re also more likely to see dryness or irritation, especially when a formula doesn’t contain other ingredients that hydrate and support skin barrier function. An example of this is prescription Retin-A; this is why people with prescription retinols experience “side effects” like redness, irritation, and flaking. I put side effects in quotation marks because it’s the effect of the prescription but not the desired ones. There’s always a transition time, sometimes lasting several months, with prescription retinols because they are strong without any skin supporting ingredients.
Retinol is the most widely used retinoid form over the counter because it’s easier to encapsulate and stabilize. meaning it won’t degrade quickly, and it’s only two conversion steps away from retinoic acid. With advances in technology, more retinal serums are hitting the market. Retinal is around 10x stronger than retinol so if a formula has this form of retinoid, hydrating and barrier supporting ingredients are even more important!
I’m a huge fan of Cosmedix retinols because the line was designed for maximum results with lessened irritation. The retinol formulas have zero downtime when you follow their step up program because these formulas that work with your skin, not against it.
Cosmedix has 3 proprietary blends of retinol:
LG-Retinex. If you can’t handle traditional formulas, this is for you! It is formulated for normal, dry and sensitive skin types. You’ll see this form of retiniol in the Serum 16 and Serum 24 formulas. These serums are a blend of retinol and retinal with several hydrating ingredients like sodium hyaluronate and squalene.
AGP Complex: This is formulated for normal, combo, and oily skin types. You’ll see this complex in Refine, Refine+ and Refine Rx. The AGP Complex is a retinol that utilizes your skin’s natural oils to help with even skin delivery.
Duo-A: This serum is the strongest in the Cosmedix line and is recommended only for experienced retinol users. It is formulated for all skin types and has a blend of retinol and retinal.
Retinol Alternatives
Retinol alternatives have become more popular over the last 5 years. Sometimes you’ll see them marketed as plant-based retinol but these alternatives, like bakuchiol and arophira, are not retinoids. They bind to the same receptors in our skin and promote retinoid like activity. One upside to these ingredients is that they can be used any time of day because they do not increase sun sensitivity; they can even be used twice a day, morning and night. They are great for those who are not candidates for retinols such as pregnant women, nursing mothers, or people who spend a lot of time in the sun, and people who are using a retinol and want a boost in their anti-aging skin care routine. I personally use bakuchiol in the morning in the Arbonne Illuminating Skin Therapy Concentrate and retinol at night in Cosmedix’s Refine.
Retinol Application
Now that you know which retinol family to use for your skin type, you need to know how to apply it. Retinol should only be used at night and paired with sunscreen every morning because of the potential for sun sensitivity. If you’ve just gotten a facial, you’ll want to wait a minimum of 3 days before using your retinol. For the first 2 weeks, you’ll want to apply your serum every 3 days, meaning you’ll apply it 1 night then skip it for 2 nights. If your skin tolerates this well, on week 3 you’ll bump it up to every other day, meaning 1 night on and 1 night off for 4 weeks. If you see no irritation, you’ve graduated to nightly use.
Once you finish an entire bottle without irritation, you can step up to the stronger formulation.
Serum 16 → Serum 24 → Duo-A
Refine → Refine+ → Refine Rx or Duo-A
*Note: the Define serum also contains the AGP complex along with alpha hydroxy acids, which are exfoliating ingredients. This can also be used before Refine and it great for skin with a lot of texture or for prepping your skin prior to an advanced skin care treatment.
A lot of people think stronger is better and this not necessarily true. If you can not work up to using your retinol nightly then you’re better off using a formula with a smaller retinol percentage. Yes really, less retinol can be better because a formula you can use consistently every night is better than one you can only apply a couple times a week. Consistency is key when it comes to skin care!
Need Help Choosing?
At Skin Sanctuary, we carry the full Cosmedix retinol line and can help you choose the right formula for your skin type. Whether you're new to retinol or looking to upgrade to Duo A, we can customize a routine that fits your skin type and goals.
Ready to glow? Book a skin consultation or ask about adding retinol to your next facial!
