Tackling Hyperpigmentation

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common skin concerns I see at my spa, Skin Sanctuary, and one I’ve personally struggled with too. Whether it’s sun spots, age spots, or melasma, those uneven patches of darker skin can feel impossible to fully correct, especially when hormones are involved.

If you’ve been Googling “best facial for hyperpigmentation” or “how to fade dark spots naturally”, this is your guide to real solutions!

What Is Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation occurs when your skin overproduces melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. Triggers include sun exposure, inflammation, hormonal changes, heat, and even certain medications or devices.

Here are the most common types of pigmentation:

Sun Spots & Age Spots: These develop over time in sun-exposed areas like your face, chest, and hands, from repeated UV exposure. If you skip sunscreen, or use the wrong kind, you’ll see more of these develop and the current ones you have darken.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: After a breakout, injury, or any skin irritation, pigmentation can linger, especially for folks with medium to deeper skin tones. These can develop even when you don’t pick at them, but picking at skin can make it even worse.

Melasma: This shows up as symmetric patches, often across the cheeks, forehead, or upper lip. It’s hormone-driven; pregnancy, birth control, or IUDs can trigger or worsen it.

Why Chemical Sunscreens Can Backfire for Pigmentation

SPF is non-negotiable when spending time outdoors, but not all sunscreens are created equal! Chemical sunscreens, such as oxybenzone, homosalate, and octinoxate, absorb UV and convert it into heat. That extra heat can fuel melasma and dark spots, especially in people who are already prone to hyperpigmentation. These ingredients are also endocrine disruptors, meaning they can change your hormones, which can lead to all kinds of problems besides skin pigment.

Personally, I always recommend mineral (physical) sunscreens that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. These act as a barrier, reflecting UV rays without adding heat. Plus, these ingredients are non-toxic, anti-inflammatory and reef safe!

Treatment Options

Correcting hyperpigmentation takes a thoughtful, multi-pronged approach. Here are my favorite methods, all of which I offer at Skin Sanctuary:

Chemical Peels: Peels are one of the most effective ways to lift pigment. I customize peels to your specific pigment type using active ingredients like lactic acid, retinol, and vitamin C to accelerate cell turnover, gently remove damaged skin cells, and reveal fresh, even-toned skin. I even have a liquid microneedling peel that is effective for reducing pigment without these traditional peel ingredients! It has the advantage of being pregnancy and breastfeeding safe so you can tackle the melasma from hormonal changes safely during this time.

Glo2Facial: Glo2Facial treatments are a great option if you don’t want downtime or if you want to enhance your peel. The Brighten and Refine customizations are my favorite because they’re formulated with Vitamin C and Retinol, respectively, which are the gold standard ingredients for anti-aging and pigment.

Brightening Home Regimen: To support your facial treatments, I recommend consistent daily care with products that contain vitamin C in the morning and retinol in the evening. Other brightening ingredients such a kojic acid, niacinamide, arbutin, and licorice root can also enhance your results. And of course, daily mineral sunscreen with SPF 30 is mandatory every morning to protect your skin from further UV damage.

Supporting Skin Clarity from the Inside Out

External treatments are powerful, but what’s happening internally plays just as big a role. Stress, inflammation, hormonal imbalances; these all influence skin tone and clarity. Try upping your intake of anti-inflammatory foods and antioxidants.

Here’s how to support your skin with nutrition and internal balance:

  • Vitamin C-rich foods like citrus, strawberries, and bell peppers to help reduce new pigment formation

  • Leafy greens & cruciferous vegetables such as kale, broccoli, and microgreens to support liver detox

  • Omega-3s including salmon, chia, and flaxseeds to reduce inflammation and support skin barrier

  • Green tea and matcha for their antioxidants, to help neutralize free radicals

  • Adaptogens like Ashwagandha to help balance cortisol and support hormonal health

My Personal Melasma Journey

When I developed melasma, it was disheartening. I had worked so hard to transform my skin; I once struggled with dryness, acne, and redness, and now I was facing a new challenge I didn’t know how to fix. To make things more stressful, I was planning my wedding and wanted my skin to look its best.

I talked to my gynecologist, who assured me that my IUD couldn’t be the cause and that I’d just have to live with the discoloration. I didn’t believe that so I went into research mode, and sure enough, I discovered that hormonal IUDs can trigger melasma due to their influence on estrogen and progesterone levels. I also learned that melasma is notoriously tricky to get rid of.

Most the advice I found online recommended brightening ingredients like Vitamin C and exfoliation, while dermatologists often suggested the controversial ingredient hydroquinone. While hydroquinone can fade pigment, it’s extremely aggressive and several countries have banned or restricted it for over-the-counter use. It causes cellular stress and DNA damage, which can lead to barrier impairment, dryness, and even a condition called ochronosis, where the skin develops bluish-gray patches that are very difficult to treat. Isn’t that the opposite of the brightening effect most people want? It can also cause rebound pigmentation once you stop using it. I quickly realized that wasn’t the path I wanted to take. Another common recommendation was chemical peels and honestly, I was terrified of them. We’ve all heard the stories: the burning, the redness, the intense peeling…I did not want to experience that!

Then came the pandemic and a big change in my life: I decided to enroll in esthetician school, eager to finally learn how to treat my melasma. Guess what my instructor recommended? Chemical peels. I was still hesitant, so much so that when a representative from the peel brand came to certify us, I applied the peel on a friend without getting a peel myself. Watching her experience, I finally got the courage to try it on my own skin a week later.

To my surprise, the peel experience was nothing like the horror stories I’d heard. There was a little tingling but no burning, no redness, no pain. Later I realized that I had unknowingly been doing all the right skin prep at home: Vitamin C, AHAs, Bakuchiol (a retinol alternative), and weekly enzyme exfoliation. My skin was completely prepped for the peel. I had a little flaking a few days later, but it was minimal, and I could still wear makeup. I noticed my pigment had already lightened after just one treatment!

From there, I was hooked on peels. I started doing peels monthly, layering for deeper results, and pairing them with microdermabrasion. Within a few months, my pigment had faded dramatically, just in time for my wedding. As if on cue, Arbonne launched InnerCalm that same year, a stress-supporting adaptogen blend, and later DermResults Illuminating Skin Therapy Concentrate. Both became staples in my routine and truly enhanced my results. Today, I maintain my glow with the DermResults Glow line, InnerCalm and Cosmedix’s Refine Retinol.

I made the hard decision to take my IUD out because I knew that if I didn’t tackle the root cause of the pigment, it would keep coming back. I hesitated because it was so painful getting it inserted but it was luckily much easier removing it.

People often ask what treatments I do for my skin and my absolute favorite combo is a Glo2Facial paired with Cosmedix’s Skin Brightening Peel. It’s super effective and perfect for anyone dealing with pigment or dullness.

Shop My Favorites for Brighter, Even-Toned Skin

If you’re ready to start your journey toward clearer, more even skin, here are my go-to, Skin Sanctuary–approved essentials:

💆‍♀️ Arbonne InnerCalm: A supportive adaptogen formula that comes in a yummy pink lemonade flavor and helps balance stress and hormones, both of which can influence pigmentation from the inside out.

☀️ Mineral Sunscreen: Choose one with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for safe, pigment-friendly UV protection. My favorites are Arbonne’s FunSun Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 (water-resistant) and Cosmedix UV Protect SPF 30 Spray.

💧 Brightening Serum: Look for formulas with the oil-soluble form of stabilized Vitamin C, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, to help brighten, tighten, and lighten the skin. Arbonne’s DermResults Glow Serum (10% Vitamin C) and DermResults Illuminating Skin Therapy Concentrate (15% Vitamin C) are both fantastic options; a dot does a lot so make sure to not overuse these! Cosmedix Revert is another favorite, especially for sensitive skin.

🧴 Retinol: This form of Vitamin A boosts cell turnover, bringing fresh, less-pigmented cells to the surface. I love Cosmedix retinols because they deliver results with no downtime. Start with Serum 16 for dry or sensitive skin, and Refine for oily or combination skin types.

Exfoliation: This step is essential when treating pigment. Regular exfoliation removes dull, damaged skin cells and stimulates new cell growth for a brighter, smoother complexion. I’m a huge fan of Cosmedix Glow Mask for discoloration and Arbonne’s Cell Renewing Face Mask for pigment with active acne. Use one to two times per week for best results.

Ready to Transform Your Skin?

If you're ready to effectively treat pigmentation with a plan that’s tailored to your individual skin needs and rooted in science, let’s make it happen.

Book a consultation at Skin Sanctuary, located in San Jose, CA, and let’s build your personalized brightening strategy together.

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